Understanding Florida's Two Growing Seasons
If you've moved to Florida from another state and tried to follow a standard planting calendar, you've probably had a frustrating first season. That's because Florida operates on a completely different rhythm than most of the country.
The Cool Season (October – April)
Florida's cool season is when most vegetables thrive. Temperatures are mild, humidity drops, and you can grow almost anything that struggles in summer — tomatoes, peppers, beans, squash, leafy greens, herbs, and root vegetables. This is your main food-growing window. Start seeds indoors in September for October transplanting, or direct sow cool-tolerant crops like lettuce and kale directly into the garden.
The Warm Season (May – September)
Summer in Florida is hot, humid, and wet. Most cool-season vegetables fail completely. But this is prime time for heat-loving crops: sweet potatoes, okra, Southern peas, Malabar spinach, long beans, and tropical herbs like Cuban oregano and holy basil. Native wildflowers also thrive in summer heat. Don't abandon your garden — just switch to what loves the heat.
The Transition Periods
March–April and September–October are your transition windows. In spring, cool-season crops are finishing up and you're starting to plant summer crops. In fall, you're winding down summer crops and starting your cool-season garden. These transitions are also the trickiest times — a late cold snap or early heat wave can catch you off guard.
North vs. South Florida
North Florida (Gainesville and above) has a more traditional winter with occasional freezes. Central Florida (Orlando area) rarely freezes but can get cold snaps. South Florida (Miami and below) is essentially tropical — you can grow year-round with almost no cold interruption. Adjust your timing by 2–4 weeks depending on where you are.
Key takeaways
- Cool season: October through April — grow tomatoes, peppers, greens, and most vegetables
- Warm season: May through September — grow okra, sweet potatoes, tropical herbs, and native plants
- Timing is the most important factor in Florida gardening
- North Florida has colder winters; South Florida is nearly tropical year-round
Timing Is Everything
In Florida, tomatoes are planted in fall (August–September for transplants) for a winter harvest, and again in late winter (January–February) for a spring harvest. Summer is too hot — tomatoes stop setting fruit above 95°F and are devastated by fungal diseases in the humidity. If you try to grow tomatoes in June, you'll lose them.
The Everglades Tomato Difference
The Everglades tomato (Solanum pimpinellifolium) is a wild species native to Florida and the Caribbean. Unlike standard tomatoes, it's genuinely heat-tolerant and can produce through Florida summers. The fruits are small — about the size of a large blueberry — but intensely flavorful. It's the one tomato we grow year-round. If you want a tomato that actually thrives in Florida heat, start here.
Soil and Fertilizing
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. In Florida's sandy soil, nutrients leach out quickly. Amend your bed with compost before planting and side-dress with a balanced fertilizer every 3–4 weeks. Calcium deficiency (blossom end rot) is common in Florida — add crushed eggshells or gypite to your soil before planting.
Disease Management
Florida's humidity makes fungal diseases — early blight, late blight, and Septoria leaf spot — almost inevitable. Choose disease-resistant varieties when possible. Water at the base of plants, never overhead. Remove affected leaves promptly. A weekly spray of diluted neem oil can help prevent fungal issues before they start.
Key takeaways
- Plant tomatoes in fall (Aug–Sep) and late winter (Jan–Feb) — not summer
- Everglades tomatoes are the exception — they tolerate Florida heat year-round
- Amend sandy soil with compost and add calcium to prevent blossom end rot
- Water at the base and use neem oil to manage fungal diseases
Cool-Season Seed Starting
For fall planting, you're starting seeds in August and September when it's still very hot. Many cool-season seeds (lettuce, spinach) actually have heat dormancy and won't germinate above 85°F. Start these indoors in air conditioning, or pre-chill seeds in the refrigerator for 24 hours before planting. A shaded spot that stays below 80°F works well.
Warm-Season Seed Starting
Heat-loving crops like okra, beans, and squash germinate readily in Florida's warm soil. Direct sowing is often better than starting indoors — these crops don't like transplanting and germinate so fast that indoor starting offers little advantage. Sow directly into prepared beds and keep consistently moist until germination.
Moisture Management
Florida's heat dries out seed-starting mix rapidly. Check moisture twice daily in summer. A humidity dome helps retain moisture but can overheat in direct sun — keep domed trays in bright shade. Once seeds germinate, remove the dome immediately to prevent damping off, which is rampant in Florida's humidity.
Hardening Off
Florida-grown transplants still need hardening off, but the process is about sun intensity rather than cold. Move seedlings from indoor light to outdoor shade for a few days, then to morning sun, then to full sun over 1–2 weeks. Florida's intense UV can sunburn seedlings that go straight from indoors to full sun.
Key takeaways
- Cool-season seeds may need refrigerator pre-chilling to germinate in summer heat
- Warm-season crops are often better direct-sown than started indoors
- Check moisture twice daily — Florida heat dries seed mix fast
- Harden off transplants gradually to avoid sunburn from intense Florida UV